Well thanks to westwinds Requiem Kickstarter for the Empire of the Dead expansion I found myself with a renewed interest (and a lighter wallet) I tried out the Jack the Ripper scenario with some friends and had a blast so started digging through the lead mountain. I have the Westwind kids from the Gothic Horror range and fagin and crew from Foundry Miniatures. Now I figure there’s got to be a game with the kds running around nicking stuff and doing mischief while the cops try to catch them. I’ll use the EOTD rules and just add a few bits to make it work but first the lead needed paint.
Don’t know where my proper camera is so these are snapshots with a little pocket cam but thought you might like to see anyway.

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I tried photographing the Special Assault Team using the lights on my workbench which gave a yellowish hue to the pics, I’ve been playing around with the lights to improve on this.

I switched out the bulbs on the workbench for some cool white ones and I also used some LED pucks I had lying around to make a small light box. I’d welcome any feedback on whhich works better. I can also edit the pics, or could if I knew where I put my Photoshop disc, but far easier if I can get the lighting right.

My attempt at painting the Lead Adventure Special Assault Team, it’s from their Victorian Science Fiction range and is the first of their figures I’ve painted. I loved the character of the models and see them as a couple of eccentric brits who will be doing battle in my All things Zombie games, figure they may find themselves up against a  Gothic horror or two.

I found the face of the Umbrella Guy difficult, very awkward round the glasses and getting the highlighting right on the face was a pain (not sure I ever did get it right) overall though lovely miniatures.

The coat of the guy in red I went to harsh with the lowlight and it made it difficult to bring back up to the shade I had in mind, I was thinking along the lines of a Tower of London Beefeater.

Anyway here’s the pics and I’ll breakdown the colours I’ve used after.

Painting:

The figures were undercoated with black spray,

The flesh was painted by painting the eyes in white then picking out the pupil with a dark brown, don’t worry about the shape of the eye yet. I then use Foundry (Fnd) Terracotta shade to shape the eye and undercoat the flesh. The flesh is then progressively highlighted using the Fnd Flesh triad 5a-c. I used the Reaper (Rpr) blonde triad 256 – 258 for the hair, very impressed with this colour set.

The armour/metal was painted using Adikolor Iron and then highlighting this with Fnd Metal triad 35a-c. I find this triad very close in colour and at times the effect is too subtle. The shield I envisioned as having been made from a sheet of old steel so weathered it with Les’ Dirty Wash (LDW) armour wash. The brass was painted using Rpr ancient Bronze highlighted with Rpr Antique Gold.

The mask face piece / goggles were painted with Rpr Marine teal, Surf Aqua, and a spot of white.

The Red clothing was Rpr HD crimson red then a wash of LDW ruby. i then use the crimson red again and added Vallejo Flat Red to make it progressively lighter.

The Blue clothing is Rpr Breonne Blue Triad 55-57.

The grey pants are Rpr Shadowed Stone 85-87.

I used Fnd Charcoal Black triad to highlight the top hats.

The bases are from Fenris and are cobblestone setts.

I hope someone finds this useful and if there’s any questions feel free to ask.

Well I’ve made various mention of the Christmas Village and work on a new Victorian Christmas Scene so I figured I’d produce a few pictures.

The building came unpainted from the local Goodwill Store (Charity store) and were painted up a few years back. They have been known from time to time to make an appearance in Gothic Horror games.

The Church will go into the new Victorian Christmas Scene and I have a number of buildings from “RotNdrivel” which I’m working on to form the main buildings.

The Row Houses come flat packed, Both the Houses and the Warehouse have solid windows so i had to carefully drill/cut these out. I’ll want to put lights inside the building and it also makes them more playable.

The figures are a mixture of Foundry and Westwind, Santa gets Robbed is one of my all time favorite pieces, there’s more pictures of him on my website, paintedlead.com , but I’ll be migrating that stuff across in time. The goblin going through the sack has a finger in his mouth thinking as he decides which toy to take.

The nuns have brown bases, I’ll redo these but my original thought was that nuns in grey, black and white and grey bases would be just too much.

Well Happy New Year all

Henry

The Mystery Machine

Posted: 31/12/2011 in 28mm, ATZ, Scooby Doo
Tags: ,

Scooby and the gang have been looking for wheels ever since seeing “Confused dad’s” blog. Searching the junkyard on Ebay turned up this,

Confused Dad is building the Misery Machine out of this model and, I make no apologies, that inspired me. I’ll try and make the original Mystery Machine so out with the bodyfiller!

If you’ve not been go and have a look at his Blog he’s done a great post Apoc Scooby and gang!

Unbasing and pinning Figures

Posted: 30/12/2011 in Basing

A question came up on Lead Adventures Forum re Unbasing figures to mount on a wooden deck or new base so I thought I’d show you what I do.

Tools of the trade

You’ll need some tools, most of what I use is shown above. I use a sheet of 80 grit wet and dry paper on a clipboard, A jewelers saw, a knife with a good point, some fine files, a pin vice with .7mm bit, some flower arranging wire and some superglue. I use Gorilla superglue, just seems to work best. I’ve been told it’s more flexible than most due to an additive, seems to be the best of the bunch anyway

A victim

Need I say more, this whole process can seem a little daunting but as long as you go steady it’s pretty easy. I pinned the horse on the Hansom Carriage. Managed to drill through one of the legs cause they are so thin and I was working up from the hoof. Because you are going slow you realise just as you start to break through and in this case careful positioning of the pin into the hole hides the damage. The important thing is go steady, for this reason I don’t use my Dremel for this at all.

Clip away most of the base

Next clip away most of the base close to the feet, if you try to take the whole lot of in one go, especially between the feet you can distort the model, you also gain a feel for the metal.

Different companies use different alloys, some are easy to clip this one by Lead Adventures is a very tough metal to clip. It was obvious that clipping between the legs would be Very difficult and probably would damage the model. On a softer alloy I would have gone for clipping out the metal between the feet a little at a time this time I had to use a saw.

Saw away the majority of the rest

I start my saw cut at the front, this is the most visible part so you want it right, because you’ve clipped up to the feet the model lays flat and you can start your cut just below the feet.

From the side

Once I have my reference cut across the front I then work from either side to saw away the material.

Leaving a thin base

You should be left with a thin base and the feet intact.

Clip this away close to the feet

Now clip away between the feet and close to the feet, as I said earlier if the metal had been softer I would have skipped the saw and gone straight here.

Sand away the rest

I now hold the miniature at the angle I want it to stand and move it across the sandpaper, the little bit of metal that’s excess around the feet will become thin and curl showing you are close to the original foot.

File for final clean up

Then use a fine file working from the sole of the foot up to finish the clean up.

Check the figures stands the way you want

The figure should now stand as you want it on the base with both feet flat, or the portions of the feet you want touching flat.

Mark the centre of the hole

Look at the figure to determine where the most metal is to insert the pin and use the point of the knife to make a little dimple, this will ensure you drill in the right spot and the drill doesn’t wander.

Drill out the hole

Drill out the holes, you don’t need to go that deep as long as the pin diameter matches the drill, I go a few millimeters. The depth is governed a lot by the figure.

On both feet

If you can drill both feet.

insert wire with superglue

I then insert the wire with a dot of superglue, don’t try to fit a tiny little made to measure bit of wire in, you’ll end up cursing as you search for it on the floor and in the end you probably glue yourself to the mini. I cut the wire back after it’s dry. I tend to leave a longer wire than I will eventually need as I paint the figure then put it on the base.

Use clip to hold figure while painting

I use a clip to hold the figure and have a magnetic bar on the bench so I can put the figure down with out the paint touching anything.

Hope this has been of some interest.

There are a number of other techniques I use on Figure bases, most of the models on the blog have the base disguised rather than removed so I’ll do another blog on these methods sometime.

ATZ Game

Posted: 29/12/2011 in 28mm, All Things Zombie, ATZ, Worldworks
Tags:
Well had a couple of friends over to play toy soldiers today, unfortunately the game kept getting interrupted by picking up and depositing teenagers all over town. I started with the best intentions of getting some in-game shots but only got a few pre game pics done.

Shades, Bert and Ernie, Big and Little Been and Duster

There were 3 groups working, Shades with 2 soldiers, the soldiers are prepainted models from mongoose Evolution I picked up cheap on Ebay, their task would be to land by Helicopter, they had information that the warehouse was actually a front for a secret lab that had been working to find a cure for the outbreak. They were to make their way to the warehouse and try to locate survivors. Shawn had control of this group. From previous experience I know that if he’s got a gun he’ll use it regardless how many Zeds he may attract, so I gave him the most weapons of any group.

The second group were lead by Big Been accompanied by Little Been and a spare Artizan cowboy that was sitting near the front of the figure cabinet. Mark had command of this lot and they were survivors living in the town, they have seen the helicopter land and are to make their way to it.

Ray, Spawn and Madz

This Group was made up of Ray, Spawn and Madz. As I would be controlling them I limited their weapons, Spawn only having a Golf Club and a cell phone. Maybe we need a special rule about Teenagers with Cell phones – “too busy to kill a Zed, updating my Facebook profile dude”, for another game maybe. Madz had a crossbow nice and quiet and I had a shotgun, potential to generate 6 Zeds at a time. Figured I’d just try to complicate things for the other two groups as the game progressed. As it turned out I didn’t need to, Big Beens group had that covered.

View toward the Corner Shop

View from the corner shop

Over the hill and Far away

A couple of view across the table. The building on the left of Over the Hill and Far away is from Old Glory the rest are card building from Worldworks games.

The original buildings I made by mounting on foam card and are a larger scale than the later TerrainLinx models.

Inside Church, Apartment and Garage

Inside the Gun Shop

The Church is one  of the old Worldworks models which I mounted on Foamcore and put windows printed on acetate into, the apartment and Garage buildings are made from the new TerrainLinx sets, you can see the pillars and the removable walls. It’s a clever system and easy to change around but doesn’t look as good to me as the originals if you foamboard mount them. The fence round the church is dollar store Christmas decoration.

Inside the Warehouse

Office in the Warehouse

The warehouse is again a foamboard mounted model with acetate windows, you can build it to whatever size you want, this one being an L shape 14″ on the long sides, Theres is racking in the unseen side of the warehouse and a ladder allowing access to the rack and the top of the office. Waiting patiently in the office is the aim of the scenario, one scientist with all the answers.

Ray goes to Church

Shades has a walk in the park

Been's been to the gun shop 2

Been's been to the gun shop 1

Although the game didn’t finish it was a lot of fun,  Shades started out with his bodyguard from the helicopter shooting at the first and only Zed on the board and made his way into the warehouse.

Big Been started in the church and started out for the helicopter but got distracted, with 4 people rolling for activation (Zeds and 3 groups) doubles were not infrequent. A double causes a test on the random occurrence table. One of these occurrences was the alarm on the school bus going off and attracting more Zeds each turn. Been, in a particularly public-spirited mood, headed for the bus to quiet the alarm, all the zombies also headed for the bus, Shades used the distraction to get into the warehouse.

Ray was on the terrace of the apartment by the church, attempting to go through the building to join in the fun was a slow process. Every room the team entered had either Zeds or gangers in it. Ray was taken out early but Spawn took his shotgun and role as leader and carried on. By the time the team got to the main gun shop they had 3 extra gangers with them and a Squad Automatic Weapon unfortunately before they could get out side and put some hurt on the Zeds the game ended.

Big Been finally realised that being out on the street with no one else but half a town of Zombies was not a good plan so jumped through the window into the warehouse where she was met by Carolee, Carolee declined the offer to join the group recognising that Big Been was a born Zombie magnet and ordered them to leave. As all the Zombies had followed Been’s team to the warehouse going outside was not a good idea, Carolee fired a warning shot to show she really wanted the group to leave and popped little Been just to get the point across and there we ran out of time.